Full of extremes and drama, the skies of Buenos Aires are as tormented as its tango and its people. One minute the heavens above the Argentine capital are smiling – and the next they’ve opened up. Rain = Floods = Chaos.

Porteños are hesitant to go out when it’s tempestuous – and not just because they don’t like to get their mullets wet. Palermo apartment blocks black out, transport halts, inflatable boats transfer people across the streets (now Venetian rivers), and tightropes are tied between lampposts for those who’ve had one too many clown lessons. Plus, we’re all forced to get too up close and personal with what the local dogs had for dinner last night.

Caen soretes de punta! – It’s s***ing it down!

Whilst there’s nothing wrong with a duvet day streaming films from www.cuevana.tv (Argentina’s best invention for film buffs), there is a whole city out there. When I asked my Porteño pals how they like to weather the wet weather, the men took it as an invitation to go to a telo (sex hotel). It wasn’t.

Top 20 Tips

1. First, kit yourself out with some natty designer rainwear. Now you’re ready to brave it out.

2. Don black clothes, specs and a Borges book (or laptop, if you’re techno) and head to one of the city’s incredible bookshop cafes – ex-theatre Ateneo Grand Splendid, Palermo’s Libros del Pasaje or Clásica y Moderna (complete with grand piano). If you stay long enough you might catch someone getting onstage to sing ‘Che, bandoneón’ (a man singing what sounds like a suicide note to an already-mournful-sounding musical instrument – perfect for when the sky is crying).

For more of the city’s hidden twists, go to the full article in The Real Argentina, May 2011:



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